Does this new, non-catalog Rolex Cosmograph Daytona watch truly feature a grand feu enamel dial?



The confusion surrounding terminology in watch descriptions is always a headache. But it's even more interesting when the confusion stems from Rolex watches. At this year's Watches and Wonders show, an exclusive watch caused a stir in the watchmaking world by using the term "grand feu" on its dial. The controversy was short-lived, so Fratello decided to dispel the confusion surrounding this term. We will answer whether this new, non-catalog Rolex Cosmograph Daytona watch features a grand feu enamel dial.

To determine whether a dial is a grand feu enamel dial, one must first understand the grand feu enamel manufacturing process. Grand feu enamel dials are created by fusing glass powder onto a metal substrate and firing it 5 to 15 times at 800-900 degrees Celsius. The result is a durable, glass-like surface with distinct layers and rich colors. This is a delicate process, highly sensitive to temperature and material properties. Bonding non-alloy materials to an alloy substrate can cause many dials to crack, warp, or become unusable. However, if successful, the final result is a flawless, dazzling surface with colors that never fade. Yes, the grand feu enamel process is risky, but when the fusion of glass and metal produces a durable, richly textured dial effect, all the effort is worthwhile. But how can one explain achieving a visually similar effect without using metal, yet still calling it "grand feu enamel"?



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Does the new Rolex Cosmograph Daytona watch feature a grand feu enamel dial?

Rolex claims the dial of its new non-series Rolesium Cosmograph Daytona watch, ref. 126502, is crafted using an "ancient open-fire technique." What if this isn't entirely true? What happens? Aside from causing some controversy among watch enthusiasts, there's little else to it. The term "open-fire" or the technique itself is not legally protected. "Open-fire" is different from "Champagne." Wine producers in the Swiss canton of Champagne are prohibited from labeling their wines as "Champagne." According to a 2021 court ruling based on a 1999 Swiss-European agreement, local producers cannot use the name "Champagne" or "Champagne Commune" because that name is reserved for the Champagne region of France. The villagers argue that their village used the name "Champagne" long before the Champagne region became famous, dating back to 885 AD. Despite their efforts, they ultimately lost their legal battle with the French Champagne Producers Association (Comit? Champagne).

Not handmade, but industrially produced. The Grand Feu process lacks a dedicated committee to set rules, allowing for its free use. That said, Rolex's use of the term is not arbitrary. Traditional Grand Feu processes are time-consuming, labor-intensive, and extremely risky. Watch brands like Rolex are not artisanal workshops, but established industrial enterprises. Rolex is also an innovator. For example, the company continuously advances in movement development. Last year's major release, the Land-Dweller watch, featuring the new Dynapulse escapement, is a prime example. Last year also saw the debut of the GMT-Master II "Sprite" watch with a green Cerachrom ceramic dial. Interestingly, Rolex's method of producing its first Cerachrom ceramic dial is remarkably similar to that of producing natural stone dials. The similarity lies in the placement of the stone or ceramic disc on a brass baseplate. This year, Rolex has not released a new Cerachrom ceramic dial. Why? We can only speculate, as Rolex wouldn't answer such questions.


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The Crown Watch doesn't use a traditional enamel dial; instead, it offers a more aesthetically pleasing enamel dial called the "Grand Feu Dial." While its appearance resembles a traditional dial, the manufacturing process is entirely different. Instead of fusing glass powder onto a metal base, it uses ceramic plates—one for the main dial and three for the subdials. After a ceramic firing process (which is easier to control due to the different rates of expansion and contraction of glass and metal when heated, as there's no material interaction), the final enamel dial is mounted on a brass base and then installed inside the watch.

The Grand Feu 2.0. Today, the price of a watch with a traditional enamel dial depends on numerous handcrafted steps. One time-consuming step is manually applying a layer of enamel to the back of the alloy base to reduce the risk of cracking during firing. But this isn't Rolex's method. Rolex uses a safe, reliable, and precise enamel dial manufacturing process to ensure the dial won't deform, crack, or even break. And that's exactly what Rolex does. The company successfully created a classic-looking (Grand Feu) enamel dial by improving the manufacturing process.

Shouldn't Rolex have given it a different name? Well, the Grand Feu Commission doesn't exist, so it can't take legal action. But given how distinctive Rolex's names are for many things, perhaps it should. If you can think of using "testimonee" instead of "ambassador," and words like "Rolesium" (more on that later), then coming up with a Rolex-esque name for the enamel dial isn't difficult. Perhaps because everything revolves around the manufacturing process, Rolex believes that naming the new Daytona's dial "Grand Feu" won't cause (even a minor) controversy.

Besides the enamel dial, the new Daytona (model 126502) has some other noteworthy features. This non-catalog Daytona also has a 40mm diameter, is powered by the Rolex 4131 movement, and features a transparent case back. The bracelet and case are both made of Oystersteel, but as it is a Rolesium Daytona, platinum elements are also incorporated. The bezel and the non-sapphire crystal portion of the case back are also made of platinum, highlighting the unique identity of the Rolesium watch. The grey bezel inserts are also slightly different, made of a new composite material rich in zirconium oxide and tungsten carbide. Furthermore, the tachymeter scale has been redesigned, with numerals using a new modern font and arranged vertically instead of horizontally—a first for Rolex's in-house Daytona watches.







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